Trimming mechanism for sewing-machines.



R. S. KELSO. TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIUATION FILED JUNE 30, 1911.

Patented Feb. 23, 1915.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

hi ATTORNEY R. S. KELSO.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIOATION FILED JUNE 30,1911.

Patented Feb. 23, 1915.

. 3 SHEETSSHEET 2- I\ w a WITNESSES I I I Win @Kelw M5 ATTORNEY R. S. KELSO.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30, 1911.

L 1 29,403, Patented Feb. 23, 1915;

fiaZ vfi 5.115551% I his AITORNEY PH S. KELSO, 01F CLEVELAND, OHIO, ASSIG'NOR TO THE STANDARD SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

TIMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 23,, T9115.

Application filed June 30, 1911. Serial No. 636,138.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that T, RALPH S. KELso, citizen of the United States, and resident of Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Trimming Mechanism for sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, and par ticularly to a trimming mechanism of the type designed for trimming or cutting the free edge of the undermost of two or more plies of material that have been, or are being, sewed together, asfor example, in the case of the inner ply or lining piece ofa shoe top to which piece is sewed an outer piece folded or doubled to form two plies.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide animproved trimming mechanism of this general type in which the cutting-blade, or movable trimming-knife, generally employed for severing the surplus stock from the free edge of the under ply is moved in a path which, though in a general way oblique or diagonal to the line of stitching, is not a right line but is a curved line preferably following the are of the diagonal chord in which the movableknives of edge-trimming mechanisms as heretofore 'constructed' have generally been operated.

In the previous edge-trimming mechanisms in which the movable trimming-knife operated in this straight line, diagonal or 0blique to the line of stitching, the under ply of the work was cut off by a diagonal out at one side of the line of stitching which cut was within the edge of the single or doubled upper piece of material. In practice, however, it was found somewhat difficult to trim off the edge of the lower ply as close to the line of stitching as desired, and it was also somewhat diflicult to avoid the danger of cutting some of the stitches, especially if the under ply was trimmed quite closely.

The principal feature which distinguishes the action of the present movable trimming: knife from that of. the knives heretofore employed is that by moving the knife in a curvilinear path, and especially in a. ath which follows substantially the are 0 the chord in which the knives of the oldertrima straight diagonal line or chord and with v considerably less danger of cutting into the row of stitching.

Another important feature of the invention is the provision of means for operatmg this movable trimming-knife regularly in its arc, in such a manner as to give a powerful but substantially noiseless movement;v of the trimnnng mechanism at any speed within the capacity of the stitching mechanism. This is accomplished preferably by operating the movable trimming-knife from an eccentric secured to the main upper shaft located in the sewing machine head..

Suitable work pressing and gaging means constitute important elements of any mechanism for trimming the edge of the lower ply of a plurality of plies of material that scribed and claimed, and are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is an elevation of the front side chine, illustrating the present invention ap-' plied thereto, only so much of the sewingmachine being shown as is necessary for illustration of the invention. Fig. 2 is an elevation of the front end of the machine,

with the cover-plate removed to show the vmechanism more clearly and with the presser-roller swung to its inoperative position. Fig.v 3 is an elevation of the rear side of the mechanism shown 'in Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a sectional, rear end elevation of the same, the section being taken in line 4-4, Fig. 3, and looking in the direction of the arrows. Fig. 5 isa side elevatidn, similar to Fig. 1, showing the parts'in 'difi'erent positions, to illustrate particularly the positions of the presser and edge-gage .when the presser is raised from the work. Fig. 6 is an en-. 'larged, sectional perspective of a portion of .90' of a portion of the head of a sewing mathe operating connections to themovable trimming-knife, and illustrates also the mechanism for throwing said knife into and ble trimmingknife is held against the fixed v trimming-knife at the needle-plate and the opening for the movable knife closed and opened as required. j

Similar characters designate like partsin all thefigures of the drawings.

Many of the parts of the machine illustrated are or may be the same or substantially the same as those of well-known types of sewing machines as heretofore constructed. The drawings show so much of ent invention mainly resides.

one well-known type of sewing machine as is deemed necessary to illustrate the invention, the other partsof said machine being of the usual construction in that type of sewing machine, but not immediately associated with the elements in which the pres- Among the parts illustrated ofwell-known construction, and for which other s ecifically different parts having corresponfing functions may readily be substituted, are the overhanging arm 2, with its head 3, in which are mounted for vertical reciprocation a needle-bar 4 carrying an eye-pointed needle 5, a presser-bar 6 carrying a suitable presser, preferably a roller-presser 7, a tension device 8, a take-,up 12, and a mainupper shaft 9 from whfch the movements of the needle-bar and various other parts are derived. The usual crankin 10 and connecting pitmanll are 'shown or operating and controlling the movement of the needle-bar and needle; also the usual lever 13 for raising andlowering the presser and presser-bar, said lever serving also to operate a lever 14 for simultaneously releasing or applying tension to the needle-thread.

I are also the usual bed-plate 15 Below the operating parts just referred to and the needle-plate 16 with its needle-opening.

Variousother parts of well-known construction and-function are also illustrated, but it is deemed unnecessary to describe them specifically herein.

As before stated the principal feature of the edge-trimming mechanismof the present machine is a movable trimming-knife or cut- 'ter operating in'a curvilinear path, which is preferably substantially the'arcsof a chord m which such knives as heretofore used have been operated. The movable knife or cutter itself may be of substantially the same construction at its lower cutting end as knives of this character heretofore used and is illustrated at 17. At its upper end it is slotted or forked, as indicated at 18, to provide for its vertical adjustment with respect to its carrier. The knife-carrier used in the present machine, designated generally by 19, is preferably one having a movement in a curvilinear path, and as 'shown it is mounted to oscillate about a pivot p distant from the path of movement of the needle and the line of stitching, the center of oscillation being considerably to the left of the needle. The knife-carrier as illustrated embodies as its main element a long-armed lever 20, which is pivoted in this case on a bracket-arm 21, fastened to the under side of the head and surrounding a sleeve or bearing 22, in which the presser-bar reciprocates. An important feature, of this improved mechanism is the provision of means for operating the knife carrier in a curvilinear path. The operatingelement is here shown as a knifebar 23, similar to the needle-bar and presser-bar so far as its general construction and mode of o eration are concerned, it being mounted or vertical reciprocation in the head of the machine, as most clearly shown in Fig. 6. At the point of connection of the knife-bar 23 and the lever 20 a pin-and-slot connection 26 is illustrated for permitting the-lever to swing properly in its are when actuated by the knife-bar. The movable trimming-knife 17 is not mounted directly on the main element or lever 20 of the knife-carrier 19, but instead is mounted on a lower extension 24 of said lever arm in such a manner as to have. in addition to the curvilinear movement imparted to it by said lever, another curvilinear or swinging movement about its own axis on said lever, this axis being in the present construction on a short lever 27 mounted on said extension '24, of the leverarm 20, preferably substantially in line with the axis of the knife-bar. The movable trimming-knife 17 is here shown as adjustably secured directly to this short lever. 27 at the axis of oscillation of the same. Thus the free or right-hand end of the short lever 27 is capable of moving relatively to the corresponding end 25 of the main lever 20. These two ends of said levers are represented in the drawings as connectedtogether, the connection being a short post or guide-pin 28 pivoted to the free end of the lever 27 and passing through an opemng in the corresponding end 25 of the lever 20. A spring 29 is coiled about this rod and interposed between the ends of these two levers, its function being to yieldingly hold the knife in position for close cooperatlon with: thezstationary cut inzlowered outtingposition, the main lever 20 serves to compress saidspring and socausenthe klnifeto closely coact with the nut is shown: at. 30 for regulating; the distance betweenzthe'ends of these levers. and.

. consequently-the tension ofthe spring 29.

means shown beinga spring-'39 coiled-about To the parts just described as constituting the principallelements Lof themechianism for moving. the trimming-knife 17. inazcunvilinear. path, motion. is preterablj transmitted by. an eccentric :31 on the inainupper shaft 9 of the machine, and' suitableconnec-'- tions between the eccentric and-the knifee'bari' 23. The connections showncompiise an cecentric rod 32,- the? firm end. of" whichaisrpivr oted to. and; adjustably connected with; a. rocker-annm 33:supported by aabracket't33. on.

the machine arm, (seeFigs. 3 and .4), which rocker-arm is in turn r pivotally and preter ably a dj ustahly connected (with l an angle-1e.-

ver 34, the long? arm of which is substan tially vertical and the short arm ofvi'hicli isssubstantially horial: and maybe connected with andzdisconmected from the-knife bar. at will.- -Bys 1:: in of athroW'in-and out device thisangle-lever- 3t my" be operatively comec to ondiseoImected-fromthe. knife-bar. enzthese parts areoperatively connected, the lmite-bar: will, of course, be reciprocated' vertically. iniits beari' and the knifecarrier will be'llated to operate the;

knife 17. in the mannerhereinhefore. de scribed, but by disconnecting. said' parts the knife-bar will remain.- inactive'and'the'machine may be used for ordinarysewingonly. Said throwsin and-out deviceas "here shown said pin extending into a :recess 36 located in a block 3'1 secured tovthe upper endot the knifesbar (see Fig. 6)

pin 35 axpull, the==kni e-bar willbediscounected from the operating mechanism. When sevdisconnected -it:'may. befl'aise'd automatically from the work held out. or. action until it is desired to .make use ot,it-f

again. Any suitable" meansrmay' be employed for raising the movable trimming knife and knifean in this manner, the

a pin 40, which-may be carried by the block 37 and may work in an'opening in the lower end of the head of'the machine, as shown in Fig.5. The spring 39 when'the'parts are disconnected, exerts its pressure upwardly to raisethetrimming mechanism as jum described- After the parts have'been disconm on the needle? plate; For instance, when: thepart's. are: in the=positions ShOWII:lI1'. Fig. 1, withtheknife.

llti' will beievi'dent. that, by-merely givin the head 33015: the

nected: and itis desiredto: reconnect them again, it: ismerelynec'essary. to pulldown.

the knife-carrier, when the. pin will snap back again into the openside of the recess 36 and thus leek thelmife-bar to its operatin :lever.

connection with. the edge-trimming preferablyin a horizontal plane, and for also. moving it into and out of an operative: position, the construction being such that. when the roller-presser is moved to itsinoperativet position it is located at a considerable distance. fromthe needle and the knife 17 as shown in Fig. 2, and the operator has ready access to the needle forthreadin'git: and to the knife for adjusting it, etc. 'lHere saidroller-presser is shown as pivotallymounted at the end of anadjustable arm Mot a lever 42, pivoted on-a horizontally adjustable member or carrier 43, secured to a block 44, fastened to the lower" end of the resser-bar 6'. The con structionof these parts is such thatthe carrier 43. is adjustable horizontally on the block 44k in a path-transverse to the line of stitching, while the arm: 41 of the lever 42 is adjustable in abpath substantially parallel withthe lineof stitching. The result is that with these two adjustments the roller-presser can. be brought closer to, or moved farther away'from, the line of stitching, as desired, and may be moved so that its point of con- -tact'with the work iseither in front of, in

the rear of; or substantially coincident with,

sired; all the adjustments of the roller presser, however, it'may be swung about a pivot/or hinge 45 from an operative to'an 1noperative:position and vice versa. When in operative. position it is between the upper andlower walls of aguideway 46, formed iii the carrier 43, which serve to take all the strain o f'the'mechanism ed the hinge 45. In said operative position the lever may also be locked in place normally as by means of a locking spring 47, which is shown as U- shaped. Of course this rollerresser is raised from'or engaged with the work according as the presser-bar is moved up or down by the action of the lever 13.

Associated with the trimming-knife 17 and the roller-presser is also shown an edgegage which may be of the type illustrated at 48. The worhn'g portion of the gage .110 the line of movement of the needle, as de-.

proper of this edge-gage is here illustrated as an extension of a spindle 49, mounted in the lowerend of the bearing 50 is shown a at a point close to the spindle 49. Thus it Spring 53, which normally holds the edgegage down and in working position. At the upper end of said sleeve is shown a lateral arm 54 with which cooperates a detent device 55, carried by the upper end of the spindle ,49. This detent may be of any suitable construction, one simple form being illustrated clearly in Figs. 7 and 8. By means of the latch-arm 56 of this detent device the spindle maybe latched in its uppermost position, shown in said figures, or

released, when it will be drawn down by the spring 53 to the full line position'shown in Fig; This control of the throwing in and out 'of the edge-gage is entirely independent of any control by the other mechanism. An important feature of the mechanism, however, is the provision of means for controlling the throwing out of action of the edgegage directly from the pressing means. It is desirable to raise the edge-gage at the same time that the roller-presser is raised, and in order to accomplish this result there is illustrated at 57 an upwardly extending arm secured to the block 44, which arm has at its extreme upperend a finger that projects under the main portion of the detent device 55 and engages the under side of it will be clear that, whenever the lever 13 is actuated to raise the presser-bar and'presser, the edge-gage will also be raised simultaneously with the presser mechanism by the action of the. arm 5.7, which engages and lifts the detent 55 and with it the edge-gage.

The relative positions of these parts when in contact with the'work and when raised away from the work is shown clearly in Figs. 5 and 7.

' The construction and mode of operation of all the new features of the mechanism above the bed-plate of the machine have now been fully described. It remains only to point out briefly tlleparts at the needle-plate which cooperate with the movable trimmingknife, the needle, and the edge-gage. -Referring to Figs. 10 and 11 it will be seen that the movable trimming-knife 17 has at its lower end the usual extension or guide-finger 58 whic h works in an opening-in the needleplate adjacent to the needle and needle-opening is here shown at 60, at the edge of a movable plate 61, mounted to work in a guideway cut in the needle-plate adjacent to the fixed trimming-knife or cutter 59. It will be understood that this movable plate will normally be pressed, as by means of a spring 62, toward the fixed edge of the cutter 59, in order to keep the opening through which the knife passes closed at all times.

\Vhat I claim is 1. In a. trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle'plate, the combination with a fixed trimming knife associated with the needle-plate, of a cooperating movable trimming knife, and mechanical means above the needle-plate for actuating said movable trimming-knife in a curvilinear path.

2. In a trimming mechanism forhsewingmachines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a cooperating movable trimmingknife, and mechanical means above the needle plate for actuating said movable trimming-knife in an arc the chord of which is diagonal to the thickness of the material.

3. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife, of a vertically reciprocatory knife-bar, a movable trimming-knife, and connecting means between' said knife-bar and the movable trimming-knife for converting the rectilinear movement of said knife-bar into a curvilinear movement of said movable trimming-knife.

4. In a trimming mechanism for sewing,

- means above the needle plate for oscillating said knife-carrier.

5. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a vertically reciprocatory knife-bar, a pivoted knife-carrier, a trimming-knife connected with said knife-carrier, and connecting means between the said knife-bar and knifecarrier for converting the rectilinear movement of the knife-bar into a curvilinear movement of the'movable trimming knife.

masses 6. In a trimming mechanism for sewingmachines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a knife-. carrier pivoted at one side of the line of stitching, a movable trimming-knife pivotally supported by said knife-carrier, means to yieldingly hold said movable knife in .machines'provided with-a needle-plate, the

combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a knifecarrier pivoted to a stationary support at one side of the line of stitching, amovable trimming-knife connected with said knifecarrier, mechanical means above the needleplate for oscillating said knife-carrier, and

a spring holding said movableknife in po sition for cooperation with the fixed knife.

8. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate,'of a movable t'rimming-knife, and mechanical means above the needle-plate for'act'uating said movable trimming-knife between an operative position and an inoperative position in which it is located considerably above and at one side of the vertical plane of the line of stitching, said movement being in a curvilinear path gradually approaching said line of stitching.

9. In a trimmingmechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-pla of a rotary shaft, an eccentric on said shaft, a movable.

trimming-knife, and connecting means between said eccentric and said movable knife machines provided with a needle-plate, the

combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a rotary shaft, an eccentric on said shaft, a vertically reciprocatory knife-bar operated by Vsaid eccentric, a pivoted knife-carrier, a movable trimming-lmife connected with said knifecarri'er, and connecting means between said knife-bar and knife-carrier for actuating the movable trimming-knife in a curvilinear path gradually approaching the line of stitching. a a

11. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the

combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a rotary shaft, an eccentric on said shaft, a vertically reciprocatory knife-bar operitted by said eccentric, a pivoted knife-carrier, a movable trimming-knife pivotally supported by said knife-carrier, and connecting means between said knife-bar and knife-carrier for oscillating said knife-carrier and trimming-knife about their respective pivots.

12. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife .ou't device for disconnect ng said knife-bar from said eccentric.

'13. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machinesprovided w th a needle-plate, the

1 associated with the needle-plate, of a rotary I combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a cooperating movable trimming-knife, me-

chanical means above the needle-plate for and means fornormally pressing said movable knife sidewise against the fixed trimming-knife.

14. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines provided with a needle-plate, the combination with a fixed trimming-knife associated with the needle-plate, of a knifecarrier pivoted to a stationary support at one side of the line of stitching and at a point distant therefrom, a movable trimming-knife connected with said knife-carrier at the other side of said line of stitching, and means for oscillating said knife-carrier.

Signed at Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga, and State of Ohio, this 17th day of June, A. D. .1911.

RALPH s. KELSO.

Witnesses:

S. E. Foos, F. b. MCELHERNEu 

